Bee Lawns: Providing Food for Pollinators
The decline of pollinators due to pollution, overuse of pesticides, and climate change is a widely recognized problem. Many gardeners are planting pollinator gardens to help mitigate the problem, but what about the lawn? Turf covers more than two percent of the land area in the United States and is an untapped resource for pollinator support.
The University of Minnesota has devoted considerable research into bee lawns and have developed specific plans for a successful venture. The recommended plants are rich in nectar, can withstand moderate foot traffic, require little maintenance, and have a manicured look. This makes them appealing to many homeowners and once established they will take similar or less work than a traditional lawn.
Traditional turf for southern Wisconsin is dominated by Kentucky bluegrass. It may have other forbs (an herbaceous flowering plant that is not a grass) unintentionally in the landscape that is generally considered a weed. These lawns require regular fertilization, watering, and weed control. These forbs are not good food sources for pollinators and are not present at dependable times. For instance, although dandelions do bloom early, they do not provide a reliable food source. The ever-present creeping Charlie is another poor food source for pollinators.
Bee lawns, on the other hand, are a mix of low-input grasses (fine fescues) and low-growing forbs specifically selected to provide bee forage. They require little to no fertilization, less mowing, and herbicide use should be avoided.
Recommended plant species for bee lawns are fine fescue grasses, Dutch white clover (Trifolium repens), Self-heal (Prunella vulgaris), and creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum). Seed mixes with the appropriate ratio of these plants are available to purchase. With this combination, blooms will be available from May to October. A range of bloom types and sizes will draw in both large and small bees. Dutch clover alone has been observed to have over 56 species of native bees foraging on it.
To convert to a bee lawn, either overseed or renovate a present lawn. Dormant seeding, or fall planting, is the best time to start a new lawn. The seeds will not germinate until spring, but the freeze and thaw cycle will do most of the work. To overseed, scalp the existing lawn to less than one inch to allow good soil to seed contact; remove all excess vegetation. Core aerate to allow better air and water penetration. Seed with fine fescue and bee lawn forbs mix.
To renovate, remove pre-existing turf with a sod cutter or by using herbicides. Realize that that herbicides are harmful to pollinators and this is not a desirable method. Core aeration might also be necessary for compacted soils. Seed with fine fescue and bee lawn forb mix.
Spring seeding is the second-best time to start a bee lawn. Both methods can be used, but the seed will need to be kept consistently moist until it germinates. Traffic should be avoided during the germination time.
Once established, little fertilization is necessary as white clover fixes nitrogen, making any additional nitrogen unnecessary. Mow at a height of 3 inches to encourage blooms.
These lawns attract a wide range of pollinators, including butterflies, moths, bees, wasps, beetles, and some flies. Most native bees are docile, but wasps can be aggressive. Most stinging insects will not take kindly to being stepped on, so watch where you are walking.
Carol Shirk
Certified Master Gardener